Recette Savon au CBD
Why make your own CBD soap? It is very difficult to find CBD soap on the market, despite its moisturizing and anti-inflammatory properties for the skin.
CBD helps to regulate sebum production and several studies have also shown that CBD helps to treat skin conditions such as eczema or psoriasis. Cannabidiol also contains nutrients such as vitamin E that help to nourish and protect the skin.
In addition, most commercial soaps contain palm oil, which is more economical but the cultivation methods destroy biodiversity in many countries. Along with the ecological consequences, these soaps are often hot saponified to save time, which deteriorates the quality of the oils and their properties. Some manufacturers even use components that irritate the skin, such as synthetic agents (EDTA), parabens or synthetic perfumes.
Making one’s own cold saponified soap therefore makes it possible to have clean and moisturised skin, while respecting nature. The technique is still relatively simple, but a few precautions are necessary!
We’ll explain it all to you!
Recipe CBD Soap
- An accurate scale (to the nearest 0.01 gram).
- A large stainless steel bowl to dilute the soda in water.
- A wooden, stainless steel or silicone spatula
- A saucepan for melting butter and solid oils in a bain-marie
- A large stainless steel container for soap paste preparation
- A thermometer
- A hand blender
- Silicone moulds
- pH paper (optional – to test the soap after the cure)
- Special gloves for chemicals
- A breathing mask (caustic soda fumes are toxic).
- Protective goggles
- Adapted clothing (long sleeves and trousers)
- An apron
- Closed shoes
White vinegar close by, to put on the skin immediately in case of a burn (Have you seen Fight club??).
No aluminium! And glass is not recommended in the long term !
- 170g of coconut oil
- 737 of extra virgin olive oil (from a first cold pressing)
- 28 g castor oil
- 283 g of demineralised water
- 1g of CBD isolate
- 124g of caustic soda (not to be confused with baking soda, soda crystals or sodium percarbonate!). Caustic soda must be 100% caustic soda, the label must show the NaOH symbol.
Caution, do not change the oils in this recipe! Pay attention to the weights of each ingredient!
Before you begin preparation, organise all your equipment, protect your work surface with newspaper and read the recipe carefully before you start.
1. Weigh and melt 170g of coconut oil in a bain marie. Once the coconut oil has melted, add 737g of olive oil and 28g of castor oil as well as 1g of CBD isolate to a salad bowl. The mixture should be between 37 and 46 ºC!
Be careful not to heat the oils too much, the temperature must be sufficient to melt the coconut oil, but not to cook it.
2. Weigh 283g of demineralised water and pour it into another stainless steel bowl.
3. Weigh and then gently pour 124g of caustic soda into the stainless steel bowl with the water and mix with a spatula.
You can pour the soda along the side of the bowl to avoid splashing, which could burn you! Also be very careful with the fumes, which can be toxic! Do not hesitate to go outside to carry out this step if your work space is not sufficiently ventilated !
4. When the soda is dissolved and the water is translucent again, wait until the temperature of the water/soda mixture is between 37 and 46°c.
It is important that the temperature difference between the oils and the soda does not exceed 10°C when mixing.
5. When the two mixtures are of equivalent temperature, slowly pour the soda/water mixture into the bowl with the oils, mixing vigorously with a spatula. Then mix with a hand blender until a “trace” appears.
The trace is a very important moment because it indicates that the soap is beginning to solidify. When a little paste is poured, it leaves a trace in the bowl: the preparation is not as liquid as before and appears to thicken. Continue to mix until this “trace” is visible. This can vary from a few seconds to several minutes
- No trace = the paste is very liquid and leaves no trace. The risk of splitting the mixture is high so you must continue mixing.
- Fine trace = the paste has slightly thickened and leaves a slight trace on the surface. It coats the spoon like a custard cream. This is when you can start “marbling” by adding colour pigments to half of your paste.
- Clear trace = this time, the paste has thickened well and leaves a clearly visible trace. This is the ideal moment to put the soap into the mould: the soap is fluid enough to be moulded easily and the risk of splitting is clearly reduced.
- Thick trace = this time the soap has the consistency of pastry cream. Moulding begins to be difficult and the soap may contain air bubbles.
6. Then pour the homogeneous paste into the chosen moulds.
7. Leave to stand for 24 to 48 hours before removing your soaps from the moulds with gloves.
8. Leave your soap to stand for 4 weeks in a ventilated, temperate place away from the sun so that saponification is completely finished.
The pH will then drop and should be between 8.5 and 10 (the higher the value, the more the soap will dry the skin). This drying time is called “the curing”.
As caustic soda can cause burns, you should avoid exposing your skin as much as possible. For added safety, we recommend that you keep a bottle of white vinegar nearby to quickly neutralize a potential burn caused by caustic soda.
Important point: follow the order of this recipe. Caustic soda should always be poured into the water (and not the other way around to avoid chemical reactions). In contact with water, caustic soda heats up and releases toxic fumes, so ventilate the room well.
It is strongly advised not to use an aluminium container for the water/caustic solution, as this can react at the molecular level with your mixture and can ruin your soaps.
As for glass, the consequences are less serious, it will not ruin your recipe but soda can damage or even break your glass container in the long term.
It is possible to add pigments to your preparation for more creativity. Several options exist: green clay, natural colouring, turmeric powder, beetroot juice, ..
If you wish to change the oils in the recipe :
Each oil has a different fatty acid profile and it is the fatty acids that will give the saponification index that will determine the amount of soda required. If you wish to change the oils, you must recalculate the right amount of soda to use.
For this calculation, you must multiply the saponification number with caustic soda (NaOH) by the weight.
For example: if I put 200 grams of olive oil with a saponification number of caustic soda of 135 milligrams (0.135 grams), I get 0.135×200 = 27. So I will need 27 grams of soda for 200 grams of olive oil. To help you, you can use an automatic saponification calculator: http://bit.ly/CalculateurSAF.
If you decide to change the recipe, take great care to check your calculations! Whether you do them by hand or with the help of a calculator, it is important to respect the risks involved with using caustic soda.
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